Wireless chargers are a common way to “cut the wire.” It’s more than just convenient; They can help you avoid the abrasion of the charging port on your phone and get rid of cables that fray over time. There are plenty of options ranging from $10 to $50, usually black plastic, sometimes white. If you’re sick of that kind of aesthetics, and the last thing you want is another piece of plastic, we’ve got a solution.
While browsing Amazon, I was intrigued when I came across this 15W fast charging unit. with it and suitable power supplyYou can make your own charger, or mount it in your desktop. We decided to make our own valet and charger combo, with a place to put your change in your pocket and the keys. This is a simple project that you can easily customize by choosing a different wood or finish – if you want to be more creative, you can change the size, add more parking compartments, or steer a pocket under your desktop for it.
Here’s what you’ll need:
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DIY wireless charger materials
The tools you will need
Steps to build your own wireless charger
Step 1: Cut the wood pieces
The parts list for all the pieces you’ll need is below. All of these panels were cut from the boards mentioned above, which was the easiest and most efficient way to get the required pieces. You can certainly buy different sizes and tear or trim it as you see fit to end up with the same cut.
upper and lower frame:
- ½” x 1″ x 6 5/8″ (2 up and down are required)
- 1⁄2″ x 1″ x 7″ (2 sides needed)
All four tire pieces need 45-degree edges cut on both ends.
Cargo deck and luggage compartment:
- ¼” x 3″ x 6 3/4″
- 3⁄4″ x 2″ x 6″
- ¾” x ¾” x 1 ¼” (required 2)
Step 2: Glue separators
Glue the ¾ x ¾ x 1-inch spacers flush with the corners to the long side of the shipping surface an inch thick.
Step 3: Drill the hole for the LED charging status indicator
On one of the shorter frame pieces (½ x 1 ¼ x 6 5/8 inches), locate the LED charge status light. The hole should be two inches from one end and be in the middle, an inch from either edge. Secure the board to a piece of wood and drill an 1/8-inch hole on your mark. Next, using a 5-32 inch drill bit, drilling from the surface that will face the inside of the tire, widen the hole to a depth of 3/8 inch. The LED has a small shoulder, this will allow it to be firmly inserted into the hole without going through it all.
Gently push the bulb into the larger hole. It should slide easily and barely protrude on the other side. Pull it out – If it doesn’t come out easily, push it out with the sharp end of a ⁄ inch drill bit.
Step 4: Drill a hole for the power socket
On the other short frame pieces (½ x 1 ¼ x 6 5/8 inches), locate the power socket. The hole should be two inches from one end and an inch from either edge in the middle. Install the board down to a piece of wood and drill an inch hole with a Forstner bit, 3⁄8 inch deep.
Next, drill a 19- to 64-inch hole in the center of the 1-inch hole, running along the wood.
Push the power socket on the outside to test the fit and make sure the collar can attach.
Step 5: Assemble the frame
Glue one of the beveled ends to the top and bottom (½ x 1 x 6 5/8 inches), and both ends of the side piece (½ x 1 x 7 inches). Put them into the corner clamps so that the corner joints are tight. Make sure the holes for the LED and power socket are aligned and on the same side of the frame. Clean any glue that comes out with a damp cloth and wait a few hours for the glue to dry before loosening it.
Corner clips will help make the frame assembly easier. It is best, if possible, to use one clamp in each corner, and assemble the entire frame at once. The clamps we used were a little too big to use at the same time.
Repeat gluing and fitting to attach the other side piece (½ x 1 x 7 inch) and seal the frame.
Step 6: Glue in the charging surface
Take the cargo deck with the spacers and test to fit them into the frame. The spacers will fit into the corners, and the top edges should be aligned with the top of the frame. You can use a metric saw to shave off the ends carefully so that this piece fits snugly with no air gap.
Once cut to fit properly, glue the three sides touching the frame, as well as the spacers, press the piece inward, and secure it carefully. Make sure the charging surface is positioned over the slots for the LED light and power socket. Clean any glue that comes out with a damp cloth and wait a few hours for the glue to dry before loosening it.
Step 7: Glue on the bottom of the clothes box
You’ll need to trim the bottom of the wardrobe (¾ x 2 x 6 inches) to fit, just as you did with the cargo deck. It should overlap the charging surface by about an inch. Once the piece fits properly, glue the edges that contact the frame and the bottom of the shipping surface where they overlap. Press the bottom of the dresser into place and clip gently to secure it in place.
Turn the tire over and make sure the cabin is an inch deep all the way through, and tighten the clamps. Clean any glue with a damp cloth. Wait a few hours for the glue to dry before loosening it.
Step 8: Cut and Fit the Bottom Cover
Measure inside the frame at the bottom – it should be about 5 x 6 inches. Cut this from a scrap of inch plywood. Attach it to the frame so that it rests flat on the spacers and the bottom of the clothes box. Drill guide holes for the #4 wood screws in the corners a little over an inch deep. Use countersunk holes so that the wood screws will be driven in when they are screwed in.
Screw the bottom panel inside to make sure everything fits properly, then remove the panel.
Step 9: Apply the finish of your choice
Sand the visible surfaces of the wireless charger before you’re done. Start with 220 grit, then finish with 320. Sand in the direction of the grain, until the wood is uniformly smooth. Wipe or blow sawdust and apply the finish of your choice. You can leave the wood natural or stain it. We chose a natural finish with tung oil, which you can rub with a rag. Apply three or four layers. If the finish looks uniform, you can call it done – or you can polish it with 000 steel wool And the finishing waxgiving it a soft and natural feel.
Step 10: Install the charging unit
Take your charging unit and place it in the center of the underside of the charging surface. With shipping files for wood, track its location.
Remove the unit and place a swab of silicone adhesive on each corner.
Carefully press the charging pad, with the coils down, into the adhesive. Leave it for several hours for the adhesive to cure. Then use two pieces of Double-sided mounting tape 3m To secure the circuit board to the bottom of the charging coil board.
Step 11: Install the LED and the power socket
Press the LED charge status indicator into place, making sure it is completely firm and barely protruding from the outside of the frame.
Use a bit of hot glue, from a hot glue gun, to secure the LED wires. When it cools, the hot glue will hold the wires securely in place but can be scraped off if they need to be replaced.
The wires in the charging unit are too long – remove the terminals at the end of the wires. Remove the black retainer/cap on the power socket and slip it over the power wires, the small end first. Pass the wires through the power socket hole in the frame. Trim the wires, leaving about 2-3 inches of wire outside the frame. Separate about an inch from the end of each wire and then plug them into the power socket: The positive red wire is soldered to the center pin contact, and the negative black wire is soldered to the other contact.
Push the socket into the frame, slide the black cap up the wires, into the socket, and screw it in to secure the socket to the frame.
The power socket we used has plug wires already plugged in, but most don’t. We soldered these leads directly to the charger’s circuit board.
Now all that’s left is to plug in the power supply and charge your phone.
Brad Ford has spent most of his life using tools to repair, build, or make things. He grew up on a farm where he learned to weld, repair and paint. From the farm, he went to work for a classic car dealer, repairing and servicing Rolls Royces, Bentleys, and Jaguars. Today, when he’s not testing tools or writing for Popular Mechanics, he’s busy keeping up with projects on his old farm in eastern Pennsylvania.
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